Remember those
stories, where the author asks us to take a leap of faith with them, to suspend
reality as we go through a hole, maybe a trap door in a closet, or sit in a
tree house that can travel through time to get the main characters (and through
them the reader) to a magical place where there are dragons and elves or
princes and princesses, or other flights of fancy?
You know the
stories like:Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, The Magic Tree House
series, The Chronicles of Narniaprobably come to mind.
Due to the
scattershot workings of my mind, I was recently thinking about the Port Authority
Bus Terminal in New York City. My thoughts turned to going to our camp reunions
in the days before I had a license or a car and I thought of how I would get
there. I thought the similarity of the words port/portal was apropos as that bus terminal was our trap
door in a closet, our Magic Tree House to the special worlds of trees and
grass, lakes and rivers, mountains and valleys…outside the city.
City kids of a certain age, those of us who grew up in Gotham before Guiliani& Bloomberg cleaned it up, will tremble a bit at the thought of this portal, our trap door to travel to the leafier confines outside the five boroughs. ThePort Authority?Dun DunDun.Holy shit! Talk about a crucible, a labyrinth. Man that place made even street-wise kids put their wallets in their front pockets. It was a metal and concrete behemoth just west of Times Square, I don’t know how many stories high, a hulking mass of bus fumes, street walking hookers, con men, homeless vets, punks, litter and the suburban rubes who had to travel in and out of the city every day to the greener pastures of Upstate New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania and beyond!
Oh to be one
of those rubes, gulp. We were warned, by our peers, street smart guys from the
neighborhood, wizened adults and of course our parents about taking the bus
from Port Authority.
Don’t ask anyone questions! These
people sense fear.
Act like you know exactly where you’re going!
Do NOT trust anyone. Most people are on the make.
Are you sure you can’t get a ride?
The thought
of heading into the Port Authority to exit the Big Apple could make your knees
knock. Before the first trip, there was a genuinefear that if you engaged in a
conversation with the wrong dude, you might never be found again. The
possibility of getting gutted by a knife in the bathroom seemed like something
that I should protect against, as if someone might drag me into the bathroom by
force because there was NO WAY I would use a public restroom in the subway, let
alone the Port Authority. Stories circulated in our neighborhood of people who
went to Port Authority and didn’t come out the same person, urban legends like…Johnny T took some acid he bought at the
Port Authority and now look at him? His mom breaks out into tears every time
she sees him. Last I heard he thought he was a can opener, he’s living on the
streets in Hells Kitchen…he’s practically homeless.
From our
neighborhood, there were many reasons a young adult, a teenagermight have to go
through the Port Authority. Most often
it was my trips to camp reunions or I might be visiting a girlfriend or maybe a
group of us would organize a camping trip up to Harriman State Park. If I couldn’t
get a ride(man it was nice to have friends with cars) Port Authority was the
last option. Eventually, a necessary evil, one that might be worth the risk if those
special places outside the city were really calling you.
From our
neighborhood you’d take the F train,
switch to the A at Jay Street and
then exit the A at 42nd
Street. From there you wind up meandering the dank, graffiti-covered tunnels, reading
the billboards, following the signs, keeping up with the crowds, to emerge
“inside” the Port Authority Bus Terminal.
And here it
comes…
Spare some change?
Pssst, Sense, Sense, Sensimillion?
Thai Stick?
As I walk,
the advice of friends echoing in my head…Keep
walking. Don’t make eye contact and whatever you do, don’t ask anyone a
question! Act like you know where you’re going. As a last resort, if you’re not
sure , your head is starting to spin, find a suburbanite, look for Regular-Joe
Commuter, they are there…and grab onto them like a life preserver.
It’s an
interesting performance, to act like you know where you’re going when the maze
seems limitless and fraught with danger.
You hear the voices and there’s the fear that a decision of yours might
result in you losing your wallet, getting stabbed, or even worse….To act cocky
while we have no clue, that’s the city-kid recipe for survival… That’s how we
make it through life…
I always
chuckle and think that I should get a piece of cheese at the end after successfully
wending my way up the twists and turns of the subway and Port Authority tunnels,
considering the subway’s reputation for rats and all.
Mind is
racing as you go…Follow the signs, we’re
cool, we know what we’re doing. Find the right bus company…damn, look at all
the choices. Why didn’t somebody tell me the name of the bus company? Hey this
isn’t so bad, seems like quite a few normal people around. She’s kind of cute.
But hey, I’m going to visit my girlfriend.
Where’s the bus company that serves…Rockland County? He’s clearly a father, a business man, he’s not going to rob me, I could ask him…
Where’s the bus company that serves…Rockland County? He’s clearly a father, a business man, he’s not going to rob me, I could ask him…
“Excuse me,
do you know…
And of
course it works out. There are plenty of helpful people around. Mr. Commuter is
someone’s father, smiles at your anxiety and gives you foolproof
directions. If he’s going to the same
bus as you, might even say, “I’m heading that way, bus is in 11 minutes, buy
your ticket and you can follow me.”
Once on the
bus, we double-check, “Excuse me, is this the bus to Spring Valley and
Nanuet?”
Whew, made it, now just relax, open
my book and watch the scenery.
The bus gets
more and more crowded. Try to make myself intrusive, large, so nobody sits next
to me. Veteran commuters come in, stow their briefcases and duffel bags
overhead, put their headphones on (Walkman headphones not earbuds) open their
books, most nod off to sleep. When the
bus is just about full, we begin to drive. Big noises, squeaking brakes,
lurching buses, horns beeping, traffic…exiting the Port Authority on the bus,
is similar to getting into the Port Authority…twists and turns and dark
tunnels. Eventually some of the ramps are outdoors, we can orient ourselves…there’s the West Side Highway over there,
Empire State Building...It seemed that most buses, no matter where I was
heading, would take the Lincoln Tunnel and then head West, North or South after
that. After many stops at various odd
places for bus stops, hotels, smaller bus terminals…I would be excited to exit
the bus, finally into the welcoming embrace of a friend…
Coming
back…After a two or three day breather, a scrubbing off of the city grime if you will, with Fresh Air, sunshine,
greenery, we had to get back on the same bus, and reverse the trip. Ugh, what a
sad trip that always was, watching my girlfriend get smaller and smaller in the
bus window as I prepare to retrace my steps, to reenter the city through the
same maze was a shock to the system. I love the city, always have but it was at
those moments of reentry, after being cleansed of the city’s grit, that New
York seemed so much dirtier, the litter, the graffiti, the rats, were
depressing. The city felt even dirtier than before being juxtaposed with the places
I had left. Those were the rare moments when I could see why someone would say,
“How do you live in the city?” But it
was always a fleeting thought, after the initial shock to the system, instinct
and survival mode would take over.
Once you
made the trip once, the turns, the bus companies that service each area, the
windows where you buy your tickets became familiar. The labyrinth becomes less intimidating every time you
cruise through Port Authority like a crafty veteran. Head down, hold your
belongings close, get your ticket, follow the crowd to your bus, grab a seat
and open your book, you’re home free, so to speak. Enjoy the ride. And like
many things that once seemed so scary, not so much anymore. I’m still thankful
that I have a car, and I don’t think I’ve been inside the Port Authority since
Reagan was in the White House. Happy Trails.
Love this account. As someone who's trying to get people out of the city more and into the wilds of Harriman State Park, it helps to know where the gaps exist and what causes people to NOT use public transportation to get out into nature more.
ReplyDeleteI have to believe that Port Authority is better and easier to use. Thanks for this reminiscence!